| How to completely rehab a home in 10 days! |
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DanAuito
New Member
Cash: $ 1.05
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Joined: 14 Jul 2005
Location: Inverness Florida
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| How to completely rehab a home in 10 days! |
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Complete Home Rehab in 10 Days
By Dan Auito
This report is about taking a house and restoring it to an aesthetically pleasing dwelling that has reclaimed its functional utility. In effect, it is the anti-aging medication for bricks and mortar.
This report assumes that you have already or will soon acquire the proper house. The one that is in essence, ripe for rehab. Be selective and sure of the house’s potential to allow for a profit after all the hard work is done. I will help you find your house or houses.
In the proverbial nutshell, it helps if you choose a house from the start that has a sound plumbing, heating and electrical system.
• Plumbing
• Heating
• Electrical
These are things that are expensive to correct in relation to the value they return to you upon resale. Most often, people cannot see the inner workings of these systems and they take them for granted.
Very few buyers are going to give you an extra $15,000-$20,000 in your asking price because you have replaced things that they can’t see and already take for granted as just a basic component that is buried in the structure. Also, they assume these components to be warranted against defects by you.
After all, it is mandatory in most, if not all states that you fill out a disclosure form that tells the buyer of every defect that exists or ever has to your knowledge. So inspect the systems of your investment alternatives carefully, as they can be expensive to repair and replace, with minimum dollar return value being realized at the sale.
Along these same lines, you should also pay close attention to the following cash vacuums:
• Roof
• Foundation
• Structural Integrity
Here are a few ways to quickly gage a home from its appearance:
Stand across the street from it. Now look at the bones of the structure. Does it look like a sway-backed horse, with the roof sagging in the middle? Does it have flat areas in its design that don’t allow water to be drained away quickly?
Water, dampness and rot are the equivalent of cancer to the human body when it concerns a structure. Shingles can be replaced. That won’t necessarily stop me from buying. Usually I will use that old roof as a bargaining chip in negotiating the seller down to a lower price. However, if I crawl into the attic and see that the plywood has become rotted and truss members are also affected, it’s time to move on to my next potential deal. Life is too short and I will never rehab it in 10 days if I have to rip the roof off and rebuild it too.
Some other conditions, such as sagging eves, wavy roof surface, rotten fascia and trim pieces, and insect infestations can be deal killers too, if severe.
Solution: Get into the structural members with a long, sharp, sturdy, standard flat-tip screwdriver and attempt to penetrate structural components that are made of wood. You won’t hurt anything if there are no underlying deficiencies. However, if someone has freshly painted over or patched it, that screwdriver is one heck of a lie detector! Use it.
Now, I’m not saying people would do that. It may just be the termites have eaten everything but the exterior coating of the wood to conceal their activity whatever the case probe.
There are also tile roofs, metal roofs, cedar shake roofs, hot-rolled roofing, tar and gravel roofs and always a few new high-tech roof coatings. I feel my main concern is whether the decking or the roof support structure has been undermined by water, insects, rodents, poor materials, poor design or craftsmanship, a lack of fasteners, strapping, etc.
Shingles and coatings can be replaced. Just know what is underneath. That’s my criteria. Negotiate lower for needed replacement of roof coverings if you can. I dwell on roofs because it protects everything else!
Next on the list of deal killers is the foundation. The same thing applies to the foundation. I will start by standing back from it and looking at it from a distance. Does this place look like the Leaning Tower of Pisa? Or are the seams coming apart? Do the windows and doors look square? Are porches, stairs and additions on firm ground as well?
Block homes can tell you very quickly if they are stressed out just by the appearance of the mortar joints. Those giant unsettling cracks can and do tell a story. This does happen and mortar cracks maybe 10-years old. You need to investigate further.
Once again, water is a sign of trouble with foundations because it leads to erosion, rot, mold and mildew. It washes out foundation materials and slabs will crack. It rots sill plates and your walls are no longer firmly attached to a base.
If you have a crawl space, it’s time to get your coveralls on and get in there. Now, let’s use our heads here and I mean this! Before you enter a dark, supposedly uninhabited, infrequently entered, dark and restrictive to movement area, assess the situation. Ask someone who has knowledge of the dwelling if there has been any animal activity that they know of. You may also encounter bees, wasps, ants, spiders, snakes, slugs, mosquitoes, rats, mice and a host of other inhabitants. Beware and be prepared. It’s truly another world in some cases.
If you don’t want to do it, hire a professional and I do mean a pro, not some Joe who says he is one. For goodness sake, use a licensed professional home inspector to protect yourself in all areas if you’re just not sure!
OK, you’re a trooper and you’re going in. Good for you, Rambo! You’ll make it in this business because it takes faith, guts and determination. By getting into this type of situation, you’ll learn a lot more about every part of the homes you inspect.
You should have a strong flashlight, your trusty screwdriver, maybe some insect repellent and a safety observer standing at the access entry to give you piece of mind. Now you can go to the perimeter walls and inspect where the walls meet the foundation. Look for rot, misalignment, cracks, separations, water damage or any other condition that doesn’t appear normal.
While you’re down there, look at the other foundational supports, you will see pier blocks and posts, other concrete support pillars and walls, beams, joists and cross bracing, and the underside of sub-flooring. Check this stuff’s condition. Does it look original? Is it structurally sound? Or are there some discrepancies that need further investigation? Take a good look and smell!
Don’t leave yet. You also will want to look at all that plumbing and electrical that is there as well. Scan the perimeter. Do you see any sunlight coming in from where it shouldn’t be? That might be a hole that needs repair. This is common sense land, not computer a chip lab. You can inspect for general condition. Simply follow everything to its logical end, looking mainly at the condition of the different components.
OK, you’ve made mental and physical notes. Now dust yourself off and go inside the house if everything has checked out so far.
So the roof and foundation have passed your keen eye. Let’s look at the rest of the house with respect to its structural integrity. More than half of your structural integrity check at this point is already complete as the roof and foundation are two of the most important components and those have been done. Now you are left with the interior spaces of the structure.
Here’s what I do once inside. I stand at the front door with a checklist in hand (www.inspectamerica.com) and I begin to scan the walls, ceiling and floors. I’m looking for water stains on all three surfaces, as well as patches that were used to repair or conceal damage. I go through every room and look for signs of damage or concealment.
Any flat floor is a good candidate for my scientific marble test. I’ll drop my marble; if it rolls to a corner, that floor ain’t level, Buckwheat. That’s a simple test but I do want to know that the under-layer or sub-flooring is sound and firmly attached to all those joists, and beams and trimmers and blah, blah, blah.
Soft spongy floors are of concern, creaky floors are annoying and rotten floors are another story. So once again, I’m looking at the structural support of the floors. I don’t care that the cheap, yellowed vinyl is coming up at the seams. I don’t care that the carpet is matted down or thread bare, and I don’t mind if the finish is worn off of hardwood floors or tiles are loose.
Floor coverings fall under the label of cosmetics. That’s such a pretty word and that’s what you want to concentrate on: cosmetics...more on that in a moment.
So the floors pass my test for sub-flooring and structural integrity is great. Now I can check that the walls are square because they are attached to that floor, and then I can check that the doors all operate properly and are square too.
How much more can there be than that, Dan? Well, let me tell you a few things that can bite you here. Let’s say the structure overall is good. By that, I mean you have a solid roof, a solid foundation and sturdy floors and walls.
What is behind those walls? The things that bite you aren’t usually seen until you get bit. One particular painful bite is finding out your wiring is not grounded or that the circuits are not properly protected. You’re looking for three-pronged outlets and modern plastic-encased wiring made of copper, not aluminum. You want circuit breakers, not fuses. What you really need here is a licensed electrician to do this more in-depth and professionally licensed review of the system.
I have seen more than one Joe Homeowner rehab go up in flames because of a lack of respect for electricity. Licensed electricians bring you up to code and protect your investment. Find a good one and make it a point to shower him or her with praise, attention and money well spent.
They will give you free estimates, so use them as a preliminary inspector with you. If you decide to buy it, use them to do the work that needs to be done.
Plumbers are a breed apart. You would think they use gold for soldering your pipes with the prices they charge. My grandfather was a plumber and I was on the truck with him at nine years old. A plumber may or may not give you a free estimate. With a little digging, it can be done. Just give them the work if indeed you do buy the house.
With plumbers, the only time you’re going to need one is if you are doing major system work or the once every ten year hot water heater job. Also the occasional clogged main sewer line to the street.
In today’s P.V.C. plastic plumbing kits world, you can hire just about any good all-around handyman to get the job done. If you have to tear through a wall to get at plumbing, building code inspector-man will say, “Get a licensed plumber.”
Heating and cooling: the air conditioning system, if the house you’re inspecting doesn’t have adequate heating and cooling, that can become expensive. Let’s say you have a flat roof home in a hot climate with window unit air-conditioners, and you intend on bringing this house up to what a modern day home dweller expects.
You may have a problem. Where would you put new ductwork if you don’t have attic space to house and route central heat and air? Once again, call in a pro if you need some advice. They do give free estimates!
Here’s a point for you to follow up on: the plumbing, heating and air-conditioning guys all drive service trucks. Be on the lookout for those trucks if they are your neighbors; go say “Hello” and introduce yourself.
Regardless, I have always done this and what I am saying is this: these guys most always work on the side and that means half price. You may have to pull a permit as a homeowner but the savings is substantial. Develop a network of these blue-collar geniuses. They are the guys who will transform your investment fast!
So now you have a solid house. By that I mean, plumbing, electrical, heating and air-conditioning, roof, foundation and overall good structural integrity.
So what’s left to do? Call in your army of carpenter ants, from painters to carpenters and flooring installers, yard maintenance and tree trimmers, and handymen of all sorts.
This is the whirlwind tour. Let the demolition guy in first. Order a dumpster for the next ten days. Order demolition man to throw out everything including the kitchen sink. What I am out to do at this point is to clear the decks.
A blank canvass is created for the painters to perform the transformation. They come in at this point and patch and paint. Let them blast the place with their airless paint-spraying arsenal inside and out. Give them 3 days and you have just added a huge improvement to your investment. This is the biggest dollar-for-dollar return you can make.
One cautionary note here: Make absolutely sure that quality paint is used. When it comes to painting, it’s the labor that kills you, not the material. I insist on Sherwin Williams Super Paint. It is a miracle formula that I am convinced could cover up bullet holes without any patching compound and it lasts forever. It’s worth every penny; insist on it!
So my idea of finding the ideal fixer upper is to find those where the structure and systems are fine but it still needs demolition man and the paint brigade. Everything up to this point has been inspection and appraisal of the situation. Once I’m satisfied that it is a cosmetic rehab and not the expensive money pit, I send in my cosmetologists.
I wouldn’t call these guys that to their face but these are normally men adding residential make-up to the bricks and mortar. Once the painters leave, the flooring guys are right behind them, laying tile and carpet. These guys are out in 2-3 days and my cabinet and handyman plumber are attacking.
Light fixtures, vanities, toilets, sinks, doors, switch plates and outlet covers…wham, ten days are up and this house is either held out for rent, lease-optioned or sold for a whole heck of a lot more than the ten grand I put into it, if that much.
You must be somewhat of an appraiser and deal finder. It takes time to recruit your cosmetologists, but you will run across them in your travels. Friends and family usually can provide you with some serious leads. Start networking and talking to tradesmen. Get their numbers and schedule them to descend upon your ugly duckling at certain times and watch the transformation begin.
It took me years to learn these tricks. I did it all myself for years and it always took three months when I did it myself. The sad part is that I thought I was saving money that way.
Can you see how much I actually lost? Here is a quick example. I bought a house for $55,000. Its deficiencies were purely cosmetic. I used other people to do all the work and I pitched in to keep them organized. Ten days later, it was done. I spent a total of $5,000 on materials and labor and it appraised at $90,000 in 10 days!
That’s $30,000 in 10 days, not 3 months. Now marketing time would take 45 days but I know how to do that too, and I will also show you how you can do it too.
There is no doubt about it. This can be done and you can do it. In all honesty, it may take you 30 days to achieve a completed house. That’s may be 3 times what it took me but I am experienced.
Here’s a pretty neat way I figured out how to find good cosmetologists (tradesmen). If I know relatively no one in the area, I will ask a local appraiser to suggest who he would use if he were me.
This is an intelligent way to ask that question. I ask it in this form: “If you were me, who would you use?” Now that triggers a self-preservation mechanism in their brain and they give me excellent people, who are very good at what they do! Try it; it works.
I went to appraisal school and learned a lot. Believe me, appraisers are underrated and treated poorly. They truly are experts at discerning quality and value. They know whom does quality work. Make friends with a competent appraiser and the lenders that accept their appraisals. Hint: You’ll get very fair evaluations and their lender approves them.
Marketing, hunting, finding and capturing the “ripe for rehab houses” is another book entirely. However, don’t lose faith because I have written that book for you as well. Here is an excerpt from my other book. It is called Magic Bullets in Real Estate.
There are 4 phases, or lifecycles, to real estate and here is how it often goes.
Phase 1 You will see new construction, bright shiny homes popping up,
landscaping contests, baby strollers and tricycles in the neighborhood.
This is probably going on in the suburbs of the city, as new growth tends
to radiate out at a pace of one mile per year from growing and
prosperous cities.
Phase 2 The same neighborhood now 10-15 years later has aged a bit and
now you see basketball hoops and 2-wheel bikes, as the kids are older
and want more mobility.
Phase 3 The kids are grown and gone with families of their own and now the
parents are riding their own 3-wheel bicycles, trikes to the hip grannies.
Here in Phase 3, you’re looking at 25-35 year old homes, where some
people are passing away. Others are just hanging in and some are
moving in with the kids or going to an A.L.F. (Assisted Living Facility).
No doubt, you have outdated homes, deferred maintenance and some
repairs to be made. Here is the beauty of this whole thing. These are my
cosmetology candidates. Here’s why! The formally elder owners lived
there and they needed everything to work. They didn’t update it. They
just fixed things that needed repair in order to maintain a level of
comfort. They had pest control and the Sears man come annually and
piddled around. So things were kind of looked after in that manner. Buy
here!
Phase 4 Revitalization – That’s what happens as a result of you buying your ripe-
for-rehab fixer-upper in Phase 3 neighborhoods. Odds are, you will rent
it out Dan is a 20- year veteran of the United States Coast Guard. also,
lease-option it or it to a young family when it does sell, and guess what?
Yep, out come the tricycles and baby strollers and it starts all over again.
Tricycles
Bicycles
3-wheel bikes (buy here!)
Revitalization
Determine what cycle different neighborhoods are in! Follow cycle #3.
Isn’t that a beautiful story; isn’t that the truth? Think about your own parents and your own childhood. Now I also want you to think about that brand new young family that is counting on you to treat them fairly and give them a trouble-free home when they buy or rent from you.
The harder and smarter you work, the better quality and value you can provide to others. Don’t rip them off. Don’t take advantage, don’t scrimp and for Pete’s sake, do your best to do your level best. You need education and help from others to achieve these heights of excellence.
Dan at www.magicbullets.com 
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Sat Feb 24, 2007 5:00 pm |
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DanAuito
New Member
Cash: $ 1.05
Posts: 3
Joined: 14 Jul 2005
Location: Inverness Florida
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| Getting Started in Real Estate |
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A Single’s Game of Real Estate
(Getting started in your twenties)
By Dan Auito
This discussion leans toward answering questions asked most often by our youthful men and women in there early twenties. They often begin to ask themselves the question, “Should I consider buying a home, condo/town-home or some other type of real estate that I can call my own?” Due to the fact that housing has up to this point always been provided for or lived in on a rented basis we tend to find that our newest contributing members of society find themselves at a loss for the most beneficial and advantageous way to enter this next phase of self-sufficiency.
Due to the fact that most of us grow up in either a rented apartment or our parent’s single family home, it stands to reason that most people, when beginning to ask themselves the question of purchasing their own dwelling, will come to the conclusion that a condo or small house is probably the way to go. That’s a result of conditioning and it’s a hard mindset to break! After taking the time to talk to or personally guide a respectable number of people in their twenties, I have come to find that firm, direct and accurate information can really adjust the reality of how real estate can be acquired and used to their best advantage starting with property that sets the tone for a much more profitable and rewarding future.
Everyone understands the concept of paying rent, so to begin with a great opening question to our real estate student is, “How would you like to collect that rent as opposed to pay it!” Naturally this question gets their attention and we can begin to open the door of enlightenment. I like to use the duplex example to illustrate the two homes under one roof concept. Some people are unfamiliar with what exactly a duplex is and how it works, so I simply state that quite often you find duplexes composed of one building that has two bedrooms and one bath on each side, all under one roof, some larger, some smaller.
These are as easy to finance as a single family home and in many cases allow you to qualify for a larger loan amount which leads to using leverage and more of other people’s money to get ahead faster in life. Using an example lets say you find a duplex for $150,000 (California is higher), your loans interest rate is 6% that would cost $899.33 a month to pay principle and interest back on a 30 year loan. They would have to insure it, so we use an average of $5 per $1000 of home value to average insurance costs. So $5.00 x $150.00 = $750.00 a year for insurance. We divide that by 12 months to get a figure of $62.50 a month for insurance. We also have annual taxes that are based on what the home is worth multiplied by a millage, or mill rate. Let’s use a tax rate of $11.00 per $1,000 of the homes assessed value: $11.00 x 150 = $1,650.00 a year. Now divide that by 12 months to get a monthly tax of $137.50 and by adding principle, interest, taxes and insurance (P.I.T.I), we get a total monthly mortgage payment of $1099.33.
Now when you rent one side out for (in many cases, approximately $750.00 a month) you are left to pay only $349.33 out of your own pocket every month. When I get this point firmly affixed to the gray matter of their brain, it becomes clear that this amount is much lower than the amount of rent they are now paying to live under someone else’s roof and rules. Now the questions start coming in the following order. Well? How do I buy something like this? The answer most often begins with, “By getting pre-qualified for a loan,” and I go on to say you will need to gather and bring the following things to the bank loan officer to get started:
1. Copies of three years of tax returns for first time buyers + schedules and W2 forms
2. Copies of most recent pay stubs within the last 30 days
3. Copies of your most recent three months of bank statements
4. A list of all creditors with name, address and account numbers
With these initial documents the lender can begin to process your application for a loan. They will determine your assets and liabilities (net worth) as well as verify where you live now, your credit history and a host of other information that begins to validate your existence and ability to borrow money now and in the future.
Once they’ve had a chance to review and verify your information they can pre-approve you for a certain loan amount. Once your approved you can begin your search for a home of your own, typically as a first time home buyer you will find that there are programs that let you put as little as 3-5% percent down in order to buy a home that satisfies the lender’s guidelines according to its value and conformity. Now on a $150,000 loan the down payment can be anywhere from $4500.00 - $7500.00.
There are ways to lower these costs and a great place to start is by attending a first time home buyer’s class. These classes introduce you to the basics and give you further information on programs that are currently available that may offer you the opportunity to buy with nothing down! So with that said, the next step is to get to a free class and get familiar with the process. Often I recommend going to the class before going to see a lender so you don’t appear so green and unprepared upon your initial introduction.
Since I usually find these poor souls wondering and wandering in the land of the lost, the next frown I see come over them is the realization that they just don’t have the money required to start. So the question comes up as to where to get it. I usually ask about savings, whether parents or grandparents can help, if they can sell valuable possessions or take second jobs, get grants, gifts, use trust funds, personal loans or co-signers, or a combination of these alternatives with a complimentary loan program usually gets the ball rolling. Options and hard money lenders usually come later as alternative funding and acquisition sources, so I won’t confuse any one with those now.
The bottom line is this: If someone wants something bad enough there is always a way!
The nice thing about duplexes is that the lender will take into account the fact that 75% of the rental income from the other side of the property can be used to offset your qualifying ratios, so in this case they can use 75% of the rentals $750.00 income to reduce the amount you must earn to qualify for what appears to be an unaffordable loan. Seventy-five percent of $750.00 equals $562.50. Now subtracting that amount from the original mortgage payment of $1099.33 leaves you with a payment of $536.83 which the bank says you must be able to repay every month out of your own pocket. You can do this!
Can you begin to see how with a little information, effort and belief you can actually own something and pay less than what you are currently paying in rent?
Let’s continue on with the way things begin to unfold once you begin the journey. Starting with the day you close the deal and become the new owner you will see that you now have just created a passive income stream that gives you an extra $750.00 a month without you having to punch a clock or trade a certain amount of hours to earn the money. Your new asset works for you day in and day out constantly generating income for you while you go and do other things. This is leveraging your time and money in a very beneficial way!
You also will notice that at the closing of your purchase that the old owners who sold you this property had to prorate or give you a share of the rents due and any security deposits that the tenants had given to them. Now add to that the likelihood that your first house payment won’t come due until about a month and a half after you move in and you find yourself with, low and behold, extra money, probably for the first time in quite a while!
Let’s calculate it using simple math. Assuming you close on the 15th of the month, you will have 45 days before your first payment comes due, you will be credited with 15 days of rent, you will receive all security deposits of the tenant and you will receive another month’s rent on the first of the month from your tenant and you yourself will have no rent or house payment of your own to make for another whole month. What does all that add up to? Let’s break it down:
1. Fifteen days of rent equal to $375.00
2. A half month’s rent as a security deposit equal to $375.00
3. A full month’s rent in another 15 days equal to $750.00
4. No payment to the bank for another 30 days and you’re not paying rent to anyone any longer, so you keep whatever you normally would have had to give to someone else as rent that month (let’s say that was $500.00).
5. Another payment to you for $750.00 from your tenant as well as you having to make your first mortgage payment of $1099.33 on the 1st of the month which comes 45 days later.
Side note: If you decided to rent your second bedroom to a roommate, they would pay
$500.00 a month and half your utilities as well, thus your basically living and
owning this property for free. Say goodbye to all those student loans as you
divert all these freed up funds to pay off loans instead of a landlord!
Adding these up, we get $375.00 + $375.00 + $750.00 + $750.00 + 500.00 not paid to your old landlord. That equals $2,750.00 that you will now have as a result of your first month and a half of ownership. Now subtract your mortgage payment of $1099.33 and you are left with a reserve fund of $1,650.67 in your account. Take your parents out to a steak dinner and celebrate - you’ve earned it!
Let’s review: You decided to buy your own home, you made the choice early to offset expenses by looking at a multiple income property, you went to the homebuyer’s class, you went to see a lender and got pre-approved for a loan, you saved or arranged to have the necessary amount required to buy and you hunted, searched and analyzed more than a few properties in order to find a good one that would satisfy your criteria.
Your next phase is to begin to realize that you are now responsible for the welfare of another family or person due to your willingness to become a landlord. Your tenants pay rent and expect you to take care of their housing needs. If you chose a good property by carefully looking at plumbing, heating & A/C, electrical, foundation, structure, roof, location and price, then you should be well positioned to be able to successfully manage these duties. Often, you as the new owner will begin to make improvements to the property such as painting, installing new carpet and doing some inexpensive landscaping and repairs. These are the things that add value to your property and keep your tenants happy while at the same time not breaking the bank!
With $1,650.67 in your bank account, you’re not exactly Donald Trump just yet, but you’re getting there! Smart landlords establish 6 month reserve accounts and/or contingency funds, which protect them in times of vacancies or when expensive unforeseen repair bills pop up in addition to regular planned-for maintenance items. What I’m saying is don’t spend your reserves frivolously. In my case, a steak dinner is a tradition but the major portion of your funds should only be used to build, protect and enhance your asset’s ability to produce and sustain income generation.
By taking on responsibility in the housing market at such a young age, you will have some added benefits and opportunities coming to you. Let’s look at what starts happening: the first thing is you have overcome fear and lack of understanding by acquiring your first property. In addition, you have begun to offset expenses while saving more money, you are establishing excellent credit while building assets, and you’re gaining tax advantages while getting management, home buying and repair education at an early age. These are outstanding life skills that you can employ for the rest of your life and the longer the period of time that you have to use them, the further the compounding effects will help you to go.
This type of initial home-buying strategy can and does lead to further opportunities to grow and achieve further benefits besides those already mentioned. Individuals who learn to accept responsibility early will by nature grow more mature throughout the process and in effect create for themselves a higher status in the minds of others by being looked upon as a current homeowner and landlord. Once established, you will become known for what you can do. If you were single when you undertook these challenges, then you will appear and become more self-sufficient to the opposite sex.
What do I mean by that? What I’m saying is when you meet someone who may become your spouse in the future, they will recognize your ability to provide for their safety and protection and they won’t question or complain about your fooling around with wild ideas of becoming educated in real estate now. They will accept that this is something you do and will respect your ability to manage this part of your life.
As time passes on and you find this love of your life and the eventual marriage proposal ensues, the time will come when you’re going to want to separate business from pleasure. As a young couple the time will come when you may want to start a family or at least separate yourself from your tenants while moving up to a nicer single family home that suits your changing needs more appropriately. Perfect, because now is the time to consider renting out both sides of the duplex while you begin to investigate your new single family home.
How does this phase work? Hold on, I’m getting there! Okay, let’s assume its two years later and you have been living in and improving your duplex all along. Now taking into account that you bought a decent property in a good neighborhood and inflation and appreciation has been adding value in addition to your improvements, your $150,000 duplex should command a new appraised value of $175,000. Let me explain how the value grows: 3% annual inflation multiplied by $150,000 equals $4500.00 the first year. Let’s also say that appreciation due to demand also adds 5%, so 5% x $150,000 equals $7500.00. Now $150,000 + $7500 + $4500 = $162,000, which represents the new value for year one. The second year we do the same math on $162,000 and we get $12,960 for year two. Adding that to $162,000 equals $174,960. Okay, I was off by $40.00. Don’t forget any improvements and that you may have bought it at a discount because the old owners where motivated and you might find its worth even more.
Now over those two years you have also been paying that old mortgage of $1099.33 each month and the principle amount that you owe on your loan has been reduced by an additional $3,965.96, leaving you with a loan balance of $146,034.04. The difference between the new appraised value of $175,000 and the current amount of $146,034.04 which you owe equals $28,965.96. This number represents the equity, or value, that you currently own in the home. Knowing this, it is entirely possible to apply for and receive a home equity line of credit up to the full value of the new appraisal! If you haven’t gone overboard on buying cars, boats and running up other revolving debt while at the same time your significant other or spouse-to-be has a job and good credit with manageable debt, than the bank is going to approve this line of owner-occupied credit.
Now what you have done is set up a line of credit which can be used to buy a $145,000 single family home with a 20% down payment. This allows you to avoid paying private mortgage insurance (PMI), thereby creating a very affordable new mortgage on your new family residence.
NOTE: Do not confuse homeowner’s insurance with private mortgage insurance. PMI protects the lender while homeowner’s insurance protects you. When you put down 20% of value on a home’s purchase in the form of a down payment, you are in effect protecting the lender from yourself because if they foreclosed on you for non-payment, they could sell the home fast for less than full value and still be paid in full.
Don’t pay for private mortgage insurance if you can avoid it!
Let’s not forget that as the value of your duplex has risen the rents should also be increasing along the same lines. Now instead of $750.00, you should reasonably expect to get $800.00 per month, per side, which now delivers $1600.00 a month to your bank account. Unfortunately you still have to pay for 28 more years on the original loan amount, so you will make that good old $1099.33 payment as usual. That leaves you with $500.67 left over to pay that new equity line back with. Your new $29,000 equity line which you used as a down payment on your new home costs you $336.71 @ 7% for 10 years. Now $500.36 minus $336.71 leaves you with $163.96 left over to maintain a nice little reserve account for vacancies and maintenance/repairs. This is a good example of how to transition to a secure lifestyle while using your existing asset base to buy more.
Review:
1. Break the mold and look at multiple income property to start.
2. Go to a first time home buyer class to get ready.
3. Go to a lender prepared to qualify for an affordable loan amount.
4. Focus your effort on learning how real estate works.
5. Realize the sooner you start, the better off you will be.
6. Offset expenses by renting to others.
7. Manage tenants, deposits and property responsibly.
8. Plan for the future using assets and equity lines to start.
9. Keep reading and learning how to do new things with real estate.
10. Find mentors and use knowledgeable people to help you along the way.
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Sat Feb 24, 2007 5:04 pm |
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DanAuito
New Member
Cash: $ 1.05
Posts: 3
Joined: 14 Jul 2005
Location: Inverness Florida
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| An Investing Outline, 1 method of many. |
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The Professional Investor’s Plan
The art of using high-leveraged activities
Strategy as defined here would be the science of planning and directing exactly how you intend on proceeding to maximize your profit potential through investing in real estate. Without a sound strategy and consistently executable tactics you may find that the result
of the long, hard efforts have only led you to frustration and a less than sought after result.
Here I would like to make just a few suggestions that will hopefully save you from wasting years of hard effort only to learn in the end that had you invested using a better strategy, you would have realized more profit, happiness, satisfaction, control and free time as a result.
I’m not going to make you wait to find out the secret, so here is the crux of this technique. FIND’EM, DON’T FIX’EM! It sounds easy, doesn’t it? Please continue reading to get the full flavor of this topic. There are a few steps to follow if you are to succeed in using this method and you will really need to understand before you go and do it. I need to stop here and take into consideration the new investor who doesn’t have a war chest of greenbacks to get started with.
If you’re just beginning or starting out with a small amount of capital then you will most likely have to find’em and fix’em on the first one or two properties. By finding them and fixing them, then selling on your own, you will limit the amount of initial expense that you incur. Naturally you will keep more of the profit as a result. The trouble with this technique is that you eat up valuable time that could be more profitably spent on finding more great deals!
Here is what I am saying. If you spend your day painting a property, how much have you saved or earned? Let’s say a painter at $30 an hour multiplied by eight hours equals $240 dollars a day. You, in effect, have given yourself a new job that pays $30 dollars an hour. Instead of painting, let’s say you hire the painter so that you can go hunt down another bargain property with a $20,000 margin of profit. Let’s also assume that it takes 100 hours of effort to find, fix and sell this property; $20,000 divided by 100 hours equals a $200-per-hour rate of pay. Don’t do $30 when you can do $200!
By doing the first property using your own time and labor, you may get most of that $20,000 dollar profit when you sell, but it will generally take you an average of three months to do it, or 480 hours. That boils down to $41.66 an hour and you can’t look for more great deals. What this will do is give you the capital to pay someone else to do the labor on the next one. Once you have your nest egg you can begin to pay up to $5,000 for the labor to include materials. Now you let the lower wage scales do the dirty work of cleaning, repairing, painting and installing new fixtures and you no longer spend your more valuable time doing the low paying labor jobs, so now you can quite feasibly make $20,000 and spend $5,000 to do it. This leaves you with $15,000 profit divided by 100 hours, which equals $150 an hour or five times the pay of the painter! Don’t be a laborer if you don’t have to be.
I hope you see how it pays to find them rather than fix them. Granted your going to have to learn this higher skill of finding and evaluating good deals, however, throughout “Magic Bullets” I’ve given you at least 150 ways to find those deals, such as from bandit signs, newspaper ads, bird dogs, professional search services and so forth. You have the ammunition to launch a campaign that will yield plenty of these deals.
Once you find what appears to be a motivated, distressed or disinterested seller, your next skill set will be to evaluate the property to insure that a profit will result if you do proceed. Here again, you’re focusing on plumbing, electrical, foundation, structure, roof and location, as the rest will generally be cosmetic repairs that can be done quickly and inexpensively in an effort to realize the true value without going broke!
Once you have some accurate figures concerning a probable sales price, the cost of materials, labor, marketing time and transfer costs you can project your profit. Will it yield $20,000 or more in 90 days? It should! If not, then you may consider passing on the deal and continue the hunt for another property that does satisfy your strategic objectives. Side note here: Often when you walk away from deals like this, they end up coming back to you later when the sellers can’t sell. You’ll have an opportunity to lower your offer to an amount that will satisfy your objectives and it will usually be accepted at that time.
Let’s assume that you have found and evaluated the property. Now you will need to negotiate the sales contract and buy this property for the lowest possible price. By having your own offer sheets, sales contracts and financing in place, you can move swiftly to acquire these moneymaking assets. As there are so many creative ways to finance real estate, I’ll only touch on a few here: owner financing, subject to existing loan, leases w/ option to buy, H.U.D. 203k rehab loans, conventional bank loans, assumptions, all cash, etc. You will see what type of financing can be used as the deals begin to take shape. Just be prepared to use the method that will work when you make your offer. Hint: It helps to be pre-qualified and if possible to have equity lines available to tap into if necessary.
Now that you have found, evaluated and acquired the property, you will have to affect the repairs. I did not say you would have to do the repairs yourself, remember? Here is where you play Mr. or Ms. General Contractor; by hiring licensed and bonded professionals who come highly recommended you begin to pass off the labor issues back to the lower earning wage scales so that you can get back to finding more good deals.
Note: One trick to getting good workers and companies is to ask appraisers who they would recommend for certain jobs if they needed work done. Appraisers know a lot about value, folks! They seldom steer you wrong so build your network through their referrals.
Another way to save money is to begin getting familiar with local suppliers of all types of construction materials. I’m not talking truss members and cinder blocks but you will have to create your repair list often, otherwise known as a punch list. You can create this list of items that you will need to fix or replace in a few short hours. By using your notes from your initial evaluation, you’ll be half way home. These items may include tile, vinyl, carpet or wood for floors, toilets, faucets, sinks, tubs, vanity cabinets, mirrors, towel bars, light switches, electrical receptacles, light kits, ceiling fans, knobs, handles, locksets and paint to make the property look and smell new again. Now you can spend another eight hours shopping for and scheduling the dates of delivery and installation for the larger items but that is where your labor ends and you revert back to the supervisory role of periodic inspections to insure the laborers and contractors are getting the job done on schedule.
Up to this point we have done four things: We have found, evaluated, acquired and are repairing. With these steps behind you, the next step will be to start the marketing efforts to find a buyer for this beauty. By pricing it right and advertising it for sale to the entire market of potential buyers, the word will get out. You can help that word get around by using newspapers, yard signs, corner signs, word of mouth, flyers, fact sheets, neighbor alerts, network partners and a host of other avenues of approach that can almost guarantee you a steady stream of buyers when the time to sell is near.
So you have found, evaluated, acquired, repaired and marketed the property. Now the final step is to get the sales contract signed and a closing date scheduled. This should all be accomplished in about 90 days and you will have cleared no less than $15,000 as a result. Your results may vary – it could be lower, and quite possibly could be higher depending on how good you are! I’m giving you the overview here. You will be doing many tasks along the way that are not being explained in depth here.
You will have capital gains taxes. However, when you keep every receipt and use a C.P.A. to do your taxes, the process will be fairly painless. This work will pay very well regardless of that fact. By having two or three of these rehabs going on at any one time and having just one closing a month, you should be making over $100,000 a year, after Uncle Sam gets his.
Many highly trained or experienced investors never even touch the property. They simply find great deals, handle some paperwork and sell it for less than they could get if they spent more time on it. These people are leveraging their time and techniques to squeeze out the maximum profit in the shortest possible time with the least amount of effort. I don’t condone being a paper pusher and taking advantage of other people’s ignorance or misfortunes by doing paper trades. I personally have a hard time finding value in deeds done by using such methods. This is why I have given you a value-driven road map to follow in this brief report. I sincerely hope that you will create value for those that depend on you to deliver in an honest and caring professional manner. Happy hunting!
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Sat Feb 24, 2007 5:06 pm |
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